Greywacke Marlborough Pinot Gris 2013 $30 ★★★★½

Pinot gris has proved an unstoppable force in this country, particularly over the last decade. It’s now our fourth most-widely-planted variety and our wine producers are now crushing a whopping 24000 tonnes of the stuff. That’s almost 1500 times the quantity they were processing in 2005. Kevin Judd of Greywacke has mastered the art of squeezing in as much luxuriously rich baked stonefruit, quince, apple and nashi notes into his while still maintaining fresh, lean, elegant acidity, a superb spicy lift and a long, quenching finish.