Hogshead Old Vine Shiraz 2014 $19 ★★★★
Fruit sourced from old vines in the Barossa, McLaren Vale and Lower Murray regions have been used to create this wine, which is glossy and dark in the glass and saturates the mouth and nostrils with ripe, rumpty raspberry and cherry notes before being boosted by blackcurrant and a lift of leather. The sweetness is grunty but it’s countered by a squeak of espresso and pepper on the finish.